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They caught wave after perfect wave.
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Three.
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Two.
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The wave there is SO FAST. Here's another three-second sequence.
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There wasn't anyone else in the line up.
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...three!
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...two...
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Three second sequence: One...
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Chris!
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...or that way.
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This way...
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Steve making it look deceptively easy.
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...but managed to prove his brain hadn't been damaged too badly the day before.
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Six foot wave in ankle-deep water.
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I watched for a little more than an hour (and they'd already been in there an hour before I got there!).
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The wave closes out really quickly. Check out the height of the white water on the right.
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Steve about to get barreled.
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People who are good enough to surf this wave make it look SO EASY.
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Barreled.
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And here's Steve surfing a wave that hopefully explains why I nearly soiled my boardshorts when I found myself on the other side of it. Surfing East Coast waves that are 5 or 6 feet is no big deal. This, however, was a whole different animal.
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...that you have to know the right time to eject, lest you find yourself getting pummeled by that wave in about a foot and a half of water.
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Even the smaller waves were so fast...