surf + me

!surf×me×

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surf + me
Here's me a few hours later after my new board clocked me in the face. I buried my nose, went over the front of the board, and when I came up for air, the edge of my board bonked me in the forehead right above my left eye and the sharp-edge of one of the fins when into the meat of my nose where the bridge meets the brow. I saw stars and had those few moments where I was afraid to take my hand away from my face because I was expecting a lot of blood. All things considered, I got off relatively unscathed!
surf + me
Gah! (Rockaway had all these great wheatpaste posters of surfing pics all over the neighborhood taken by Reid van Renesse).
surf + me
But after a jumpstart-recharge, we made it all the way out to Long Beach before 12:30!
surf + me
The water was totally flat all day, so we did lotsa paddling around.
surf + me
We rented two longboards at Boarders...
surf + me
Here, I'll hold them in place with my head!