surf + steve b

!surf×steve b×

surf + steve b
Steve went surfing for a bit.
the december roundup
December, 2017
surf + steve b
Three.
surf + steve b
Two.
surf + steve b
The wave there is SO FAST. Here's another three-second sequence.
surf + steve b
There wasn't anyone else in the line up.
surf + steve b
...three!
surf + steve b
...two...
surf + steve b
Three second sequence: One...
surf + steve b
...or that way.
surf + steve b
This way...
surf + steve b
Steve making it look deceptively easy.
surf + steve b
Also, because you're so far off shore, when you catch a wave, you can ride it a looooong time.
surf + steve b
Superman ejection! I got sweaty palms just watching them.
surf + steve b
The waves isn't as consistent or well-formed as Colorado...
surf + steve b
I couldn't even comprehend paddling that far out into waves this big. Look what you have to go through - and if you get pummeled, you can't go anywhere because land is VERY far away.
surf + steve b
...this time at Panga Drops: a deep water break about 500 yards off shore. Here's a photo of Steve getting close to the wave after about five solid minutes of paddling.
surf + steve b
Later that afternoon, Chris and Steve decided to go for a second session...
surf + steve b
A little before noon...
surf nicarugua two
November 04, 2011
surf + steve b
Steve about to get barreled.
surf + steve b
And here's Steve surfing a wave that hopefully explains why I nearly soiled my boardshorts when I found myself on the other side of it. Surfing East Coast waves that are 5 or 6 feet is no big deal. This, however, was a whole different animal.