After Lee's gallery, we went across the museum and check out Roger Hior's work - he takes metal objects (like this BMW 7-Series engine) and dips them in a copper-sulfate bath
...but then I got caught taking sneaky pics and I had to put my camera away. Her most recent sculpture is some of the most beautiful, striking art I've ever seen and I the exhibit completely overwhelmed. I think I heard that this entire 150+ piece show is coming to New York City this summer - if it does, you should go see it.
On Friday morning, Jordana (who is a painter) took me to the Hammer Museum to see Lee Bontecou's "Retrospective." Here's a cool, drippy permanent installation in the museum's lobby.
I managed to capture a few pics of these scultpures from the mid-seventies, where she was going through a period of creating all these crazy, Egyptian scarab beetle-like scultures...
These pics are all sorta shitty and totally don't do her work justice - they're absolutely striking in person. (You're not supposed to take pics in the museam and I was forced to snap all these ninja style when the guards weren't looking.) Anyway, towards the end of the 60s, Lee started moving away from the scary-looking scultures that she was known for and started more organic flower-like sculptures that were met with tepid critical reactions. So in the early 70s she stopped exhibiting and pretty much dropped out of the art scene. Well it turns out she's spent the last thirty years working and all of the stuff she'd been working on (that nobody's seen until just recently) is completely amazing.
I love going to museums, but enjoy them infinitely more if I'm there with someone who knows alot about what we're seeing and can contextualize it for me. Jordana is one of those people.
We hit the road again and after a lovely thirty-minute windy ride through all sorts of crazy-ass mountain terrain, we arrived at the Arkadia Monestary: which is one of Crete's most celebrated monuments of resistance against the mid-19th century Turkish occupation.
...before racing over to the cases and posing for pictures with the skulls of bad-ass, martyred Cretans who blew themselves up in order to take out some Turks.
And nope. No torture chamber either (Turns out the Minoans were an almost entirely peaceful civilization). We held out hope that there was at least a snack bar somewhere, but no such luck there either. There was however, a functional 5,000 year old plumbing system which our 80 year old tour guide told us she would demonstrate. For a second we were scared that she'd pop a squat right in front of us. But she just kind of pointed at it and told us how advanced the Minoans were. Obviously not advanced enough to leave some skulls or a torture chamber to cheer poor Fatty up.
And nope. No torture chamber either (Turns out the Minoans were an almost entirely peaceful civilization). We held out hope that there was at least a snack bar somewhere, but no such luck there either. There was however, a functional 5,000 year old plumbing system which our 80 year old tour guide told us she would demonstrate. For a second we were scared that she'd pop a squat right in front of us. But she just kind of pointed at it and told us how advanced the Minoans were. Obviously not advanced enough to leave some skulls or a torture chamber to cheer poor Fatty up.
Okay, so get this. There is no labyrinth, there are no minotaurs and not only that, there never was a minotaur. The myth is really just like a really, really, really long game of telephone. Turns out there was a king, Minos who was strong and possessed a bullish personality. The palace had like tons of rooms. Before the roof was put on it kind of looked like a maze to bemused locals. That's your labyrinth.
At the beginning of the tour, we were told that the palace ruins that we were exploring were from 3,000 BCE. So the whole time, we're walking around looking at this stuff in awe. Like "Wow this things been standing here for 5,000 years!" Then about halfway through the tour, our guide informed us that everything we'd been looking at was actually all reconstructed from piles of rocks discovered at the excavation site at the beginning of the 20th century.
After our grodey lunch, we decided to go check out the "Mutter
Museum of Medical Oddities" at University hospital...but by
the time we got there it was goddamned closed.