Surf Nicaragua


Meredith and I opted out of Thanksgiving for the year and decided to take a vacation and get a some sunshine instead. We ended up booking a trip to go to a surf camp in Nicaragua! (We stayed with Surf Tours Nicaragua and they were great!)

Wednesday, November 17th

leigh, ryan m
On Wednesday night we dropped off Maddy with Ryan and Leigh.
maddy
Maddly LOVES Edie so much. Haha.
jude
Jude's shiner!
me, meredith
On our way!
Instructional piglets!
flying ˆ pig ˆ tv
Chasing the sunrise at 35,000 feet.
Delightful waffle morning.
PANAMA!
Our Panamanian layover had way fewer hot Van Halen guitar licks than I'd hoped.
One more flight to Managua!
me, meredith
Arrival.
Waiting outside the Managua airport with an eye out for someone who looks like they surf.
daniel n
Daniel's sun-whitened hair was easy to spot!
It was almost a two hour drive to the coast. Check out the Momotombo Volcano visible in the distance!
Dramatic sunshine coming through the clouds about an hour into the ride.
Semi-paved roads with lush greenery give way...
...to dirt roads passing by garbage dumps on fire.
Faaaack.
Quiver!
I spent the day learning on this guy.
meredith
The camp came fully equipped with both hammock and beach dog.
After dinner we played Scrabble with Maddie and Peter, the couple that were running the camp and teaching us to surf.
meredith
Scrabble is a lot more difficult...
...when you've got foreign-language tiles. It was harder than I thought it was going to be to get rid of my CH letter!

Friday, November 19th

View outside the house patio.
View of the pool from the gates.
Home sweet haciencda!
The beach outside is covered with some sort of local vine.
That's covered in lovely, brink-pink flowers!
Morning beach view.
The entire beach is covered in the mysterious scrawls of beach snails.
WHAT ARE YOU TRYING TO TELL US?
meredith
Back at surf camp HQ, Meredith was playing fetch...
...with the house dog!
pete
A little before 11am, we loaded up the truck...
...a drove a few miles down the beach front to a nearby surf spot.
Nearby in Nicaragua can easily include a forty minute ride on dirt roads.
Getting close.
Gated beach community.
meredith, pete
Peter & Mer. Ready to surf a slightly bigger break. 11am
Parked right up on the beach.
Grass park next to the ocean.
Board bruises.
Empty line up.
Surfing is exhausting.
Sun until 6:30pm is such a relief after New York's early darkness.
maddie
Maddie giving a local kitten a sand bath!
Veggie dinner!
meredith
Meredith doesn't believe in sunscreen! Check out that day-two tan!
The best of what other guests had left behind to read!
Not much to do after sundown except read in a hammock!

Saturday, November 20th

The waves were working super early in the morning. After the tide went out, we went back to sleep and then got up around noon...
...to do some exploring down the beach!
Leaving surf camp.
Headed north up the beach.
The waterline had been recently decorated with fish heads...
fish ˆ head ˆ sand
...by the fishermen who'd recently come ashore.
Gills look like feathers.
fish ˆ head ˆ sand
me
Trying to prevent my bean from getting cooked in the equatorial sun.
Gorgeous coastline.
Pirate camp.
The point.
People surf right next to here at high tide.
No room for error.
meredith
Got another small set in the afternoon, then lunch!
me
Getting my broga on.
meredith
Between sets, Meredith worked on Scratch lesson plans.
me
Time to go!
surf ˆ me
Another beautiful sunset.
me
Another quiet night of reading in hammocks.

Sunday, November 21st

meredith
Good morning!
My face was swollen with sun and sleep
And soon, with delicious peanut butter & jelly toast!
After we'd finished with breakfast, we noticed there were a lot of birds circling.
The frigate birds they have their have really unique-shaped wings and split-tails.
We saw the birds were centered above a boat of fisherman that had just come ashore.
They were cleaning the fish they'd caught.
In addition to birds, the fish scraps had also attracted a local pig!
Her snout was covered in fish gore and she was grunting with delight.
best ˆ boat ˆ ocean ˆ pig
Always nice to see something you don't see every day.
boat ˆ ocean ˆ pig
360 degree rainbow around the sun.
me
I decided to go for a post-lunch swim and Meredith snapped this pic of the house dog accompanying me.
beach ˆ dogs ˆ me
me
Private swim.
ocean ˆ swim ˆ me
Itchy gets a bucket bath!
Later that night, we went for another walk down the beach.
We watched the disappear.
meredith
On our walk home we found this little puppy napping in the middle of the street.

Monday, November 22nd

meredith
During low tide, we decided to explore the beach in the other direction.
Beach front construction.
Monday, 9am.
maddie
Even at low tide, there is a hip-deep river you have to wade through. Maddie had to carry her dog because the current was moving too quickly fro him to swim!
Sand trees.
meredith
After we got back, we had pancakes!
Right after breakfast, I accidentally took a bunch of pills that WEREN'T Advil and ended up getting sidelined for a day. (Not like I needed much of an excuse to lay around do nothing but sleep for a whole day).
By 9pm that evening, I was back out of bed and starting to feel better.
me
Tacos fix everything.

Tuesday, November 23rd

me, meredith
On Tuesday morning, we took a day off from surfing (to rest our sore bodies and bruised bellies!) and took a ride into the nearby city of Leon for the day.
Passing a cowboy on the road.
So sneepy.
A bumpy seventy minutes later, we'd arrived in Leon!
Leon is the second-largest city in Nicaragua.
meredith
It's filled with Spanish colonial buildings. Exploring.
We found a restaurant with a nice, shaded outdoor garden and had lunch with Peter and Maddie.
Sun over the Cathedral of Leon.
Inside.
OMG, dude is gonna be so pissed when we realizes he's been painting upside-down the whole time!
Christmas is coming.
There wasn't a whole lot to see in Leon, but it was a nice relaxing place to wander around and aimlessly explore.
meredith
There are Bimbo trucks everywhere in Latin American.
meredith
We made it back to the house in time to catch high tide. Meredith posing with her board. (Holy moly).
me
Me with a 10' longboard.
point ˆ surf ˆ me
Dinner!
After dinner, we set up the television on the patio and watched surf videos!
meredith
Ready for bed.

Tuesday, November 23rd

For most of the week, we'd been surfing a small beach-break right out front of the camp. On Tuesday morning, we woke up early to travel to a bigger break. I remember taking this photo so clearly. The windows were down, we were on a dirt road, the stereo was cranked playing The Ocean by Led Zep, the morning sun had just broken over the mountaintops.
pete
After a short drive, we grabbed al of our gear...
...carried it past an oil refinery to the water's edge (where we learned both a man and his dog had recently been eaten by a croc).
pete
We took a boat across the estuary...
...and came out into a deserted peninsula called the Salinas Flats. A short hike through the tress...
...and we found the ocean on the other side.
maddie
Shelter!
No one around in either direction!
me
That waterproof sunblock really brings out my eyes.
beach ˆ surf ˆ me
We got a few hours in during the early morning, but around 10:30, a few really big big waves (double-overheads!) started coming in.
meredith
Those sized waves were WAY too big for us so we ate snacks and watched the other three people in our group surf.
Around 1pm, we walked back across the peninsula to the estuary to catch a boat ride back to our car.
me, meredith
Nothing better than a boat ride on a sunny day.
Low tide.
meredith
Meredith's last day of surfing!
meredith
All done with that for now!
Back at the homestead, I watched the dog go insane with joy when a local pig showed up on the beach. So excited to make pig-friends!
chase ˆ dogs ˆ pig
While we were reading on the patio later that evening, we were suddenly disturbed by a strange noise coming from near the bushes.
Synchronicity.
me
In addition to reading in a hammock and napping in a hammock, other patio activities included a bongo board...
...and that other game that consists of trying to swing a ring on a string to catch a hook. (Way harder than it sounds).
pete
Peter, our faithful chef and surf teacher, relaxing after work. (I'm pretty sure these photos were taken by Meredith).
me
I couldn't even stay awake past 10pm!

Thursday, November 25th

Happy Thanksgiving! Thursday was our last full day at the house! Here's my big Thanksgiving lunch after a morning of surfing. Haha.
daniel n, meredith
Later that afternoon, Daniel bid us farewell and left to catch a flight! Thanks for everything! Great to meet you!
maddie
Maddie made pizza for our last dinner.

Friday, November 26th

Woke up early to catch one last tide before flying home.
Not much happening.
After getting packed, we came out to find juice smoothies waiting.
pete
Peter shows off a giant moth that flew into the kitchen.
bugs ˆ moth ˆ pete
pete
Nom!
bite ˆ bugs ˆ moth ˆ pete
On the penne box for scale. Look at his weird, mothy nose!
Last meal!
meredith
Meredith hugging our beach buddy farewell!
Starting the bumpy ride back.
Look kids! Big Ben, volcano!
The road is paved, but with giant gaping pot holes that make driving fast than 25mph impractical.
Oil refinery built to refine oil passing by from Venezuela.
Home sweet home! The first thing I did was bring my bike back downstairs and lock it up on the street. (Not really practical to keep a bike indoors where we live.)
Second thing I did? Downloaded the Peep Show Series Seven premiere! Oh, the peep.

3 comments

  • garthmarch 4, 2013

    Brian, this is sweet! Do you remember what package you went with? I'm looking at their site and thinking about pulling the trigger.

    • brian battjermarch 4, 2013

      Hi, Garth! We went with the deluxe accommodation. (Although, looking at their website pictures, it looks like they've moved to a different beach-front house for that package). The place we went to was super low-key, but nice. Looks like they've upgraded to a bigger place with a larger, indoor communal space.)

  • no namemarch 17, 2013

    I'm really perplexed that the airline gave you a layover in Panama...!

    One of the lovelier beaches I saw in Nica when I worked there several years ago,was at Bahia Majagual. It was peaceful and quiet, and despite being close to overcrowded San Juan del Sur, there was virtually no one, except some beautiful sea turtles who would come to the shore to lay eggs at night, and some friendly locals who took the eggs to sell. The waves were great, the water perfect and it was probably too nice to last since the country has been rapidly developing its tourism sector over the past decade, but if it's at all similar to what it was, I imagine it'd be a great place to surf next time you're there!